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<body topmargin=0 leftmargin=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0><tr> <td valign="top" colspan=2 height=110 BGCOLOR="#666699" TEXT="#080000" bgproperties="fixed" background="06300840erlcjm.png"> <div> <FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#FFFFFF" FACE="Arial" ><B>Four Corners Ferret Rescue</B></FONT><B>     |     </B><A HREF="index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Four Corners Ferret Rescue"><U><B>home</B></U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id2.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="News"><U>News</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id6.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="About Us"><U>About Us</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id5.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="How to Help"><U>How to Help</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id64.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Giving your Ferret Up"><U>Giving your Ferret Up</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id63.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Before you Adopt...."><U>Before you Adopt....</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id65.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Ferret Nutrition"><U>Ferret Nutrition</U></A>   |   <B>FAQ</B>   |   <A HREF="id53.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Media (sounds and webcam)"><U>Media (sounds and webcam)</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id48.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Ferrets"><U>Ferrets</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id54.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Ask Angel"><U>Ask Angel</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id55.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Robbies Reviews"><U>Robbie's Reviews</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id59.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Resources"><U>Resources</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id61.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Application Page"><U>Application Page</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id58.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Rainbow Bridge"><U>Rainbow Bridge</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id57.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Animal Quotes"><U>Animal Quotes</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id66.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Animal Stories"><U>Animal Stories</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id7.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Contact Us"><U>Contact Us</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id60.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Links"><U>Links</U></A></div> <div> </div> </td> </tr><tr> <td valign="top" width=190 BGCOLOR="#CCCCFF" TEXT="#080000" background="05d11c00egdysm.png"> <div> <B><IMG SRC="065b0670.jpg" border=0 width="176" height="103" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> <div> <B>Dear Father, hear and bless</B></div> <div> <B>Thy beasts and singing birds:</B></div> <div> <B>And guard with tenderness</B></div> <div> <B>Small things that have no words. </B></div> </td> <td valign="top" height=370 BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF" TEXT="#080000"> <div> FAQ</div> <bR> <div> <B><U>What are ferrets? Do they make good pets?</U></B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> Ferrets are domestic animals, cousins of weasels, skunks and otters.</div> <div> (Other relatives include minks, ermines, stoats, badgers, black-footed</div> <div> ferrets, polecats, and fishers.) They are not rodents; taxonomically</div> <div> they're in between cats and dogs, a little closer to dogs. They are</div> <div> friendly and make excellent pets. If you've never met one before, the</div> <div> easiest way to think of them is somewhere between cats and dogs in</div> <div> personality, but rather smaller. They can only see reasonably well,</div> <div> but they have excellent senses of hearing and smell. Some are cuddly,</div> <div> others more independent; they vary a lot, just like other pets.</div> <bR> <div> Ferrets are a lot of fun. They are very playful, with each other and</div> <div> with you, and they don't lose much of that playfulness as they get</div> <div> older. A ferret -- or better, two or more -- can be a very</div> <div> entertaining companion. They are smarter than cats and dogs, or at</div> <div> least they act it. They are also very inquisitive and remarkably</div> <div> determined, which is part of their charm but can also be a bit of a</div> <div> bother. They are friendly, and they do know and love you, though for</div> <div> some of them it can take a year or so to fully bond.</div> <bR> <div> They can be trained to use a litter box and to do tricks,</div> <div> and most of them love to go places with you, riding on a shoulder or</div> <div> in a bag. They sleep a lot, and they don't particularly mind</div> <div> staying in small places (a cage, for instance, or a shoulder</div> <div> bag) temporarily, although they need to run around and play for at</div> <div> least a couple of hours a day. A "single" ferret won't be terribly</div> <div> lonely, although the fun of watching two or three playing together is</div> <div> easily worth the small extra trouble. Barring accidents,</div> <div> ferrets typically live 6-10 years.</div> <bR> <div> Ferrets have lots of good points as pets, but there are some negatives</div> <div> as well. Like kittens and puppies, they require a lot of care and</div> <div> training at first. They're "higher maintenance" than cats; they'll</div> <div> take more of your time and attention. Ferrets have their own distinct</div> <div> scent, which bothers some people, and many of them aren't quite</div> <div> as good about litter pans as cats are. Although most ferrets</div> <div> get along reasonably well with cats and dogs, it's not guaranteed, so</div> <div> if you have large, aggressive pets (particularly dogs of breeds</div> <div> commonly used for hunting), keep that in mind. Likewise, small</div> <div> children and ferrets are both very excitable, and the combination</div> <div> might be too much.</div> <bR> <div> Finally, the importance of ferretproofing must be emphasized. Ferrets</div> <div> are less destructive than cats, but they love to get into EVERYTHING,</div> <div> so if you keep them loose you'll need to make sure they can't hurt</div> <div> themselves or your possessions. They love to steal small (and</div> <div> not so small!) objects and stash them under chairs and behind</div> <div> furniture. They like to chew on spongy, springy things, which must be</div> <div> kept out of reach or they'll swallow bits. Accessible boxes, bags,</div> <div> and trash cans will be crawled in, and houseplants within reach are</div> <div> liable to lose all their dirt to joyful digging. Finally, many</div> <div> ferrets tend to scratch and dig at the carpet. Naturally, these</div> <div> traits vary from one ferret to another, but they're all pretty common.</div> <div> If you're not willing to take the necessary time to protect your</div> <div> property and your pet, a ferret may not be for you.</div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <B><U>Are ferrets wild? Why are there ferret permits?</U></B></div> <bR> <div> Domestic pet ferrets, Mustela furo (sometimes called Mustela putorius</div> <div> furo), are not wild animals.</div> <bR> <div> They have been domesticated for a very long time, perhaps two or</div> <div> three thousand years. They're not equipped to survive for very long</div> <div> on their own; escaped pets suffer from dehydration, starvation and</div> <div> exposure, and usually don't survive more than a few days unless</div> <div> someone takes them in. Unlike cats and dogs, ferrets aren't even</div> <div> large enough to push over garbage cans and scavenge.</div> <bR> <div> Domestic ferrets are generally believed to be descended from the</div> <div> European polecat; they were originally used as hunting animals to</div> <div> catch rabbits and rodents. They weren't supposed to kill the prey,</div> <div> they just chased them out of their holes and the farmers (hunters)</div> <div> killed them. This practice is now illegal in the U.S. and Canada, but</div> <div> it's still fairly popular in the U.K. and some other places.</div> <bR> <div> A "ferret-free zone," or FFZ, is a place where ferrets are banned or</div> <div> illegal. In some other places, ferret owners are required to</div> <div> have licenses or permits. States, counties, and municipalities outlaw</div> <div> or restrict ferrets for a variety of reasons, pretty much all invalid,</div> <div> but I'd say that the fundamental problem is that many people don't</div> <div> understand what a pet ferret is.</div> <bR> <div> What are some of those invalid reasons, you ask? Well, a common one</div> <div> is that ferrets are seen as wild animals like raccoons or skunks,</div> <div> rather than a domestic species like housecats. Of course, ferrets</div> <div> have been domesticated for at least 2500 years.</div> <bR> <div> Another popular misconception is that ferrets pose a serious rabies</div> <div> danger; in fact, studies have indicated that it's very hard for a</div> <div> ferret to catch rabies, and when one does, it dies very quickly, so</div> <div> the danger is very small indeed. Besides, there's a ferret rabies</div> <div> vaccine which has been shown to be effective.</div> <bR> <div> A third common reason for banning ferrets is the idea that escaped</div> <div> pets (nearly all of which are spayed or neutered) will form feral</div> <div> packs and threaten livestock or native wildlife. There are no</div> <div> confirmed cases of feral ferrets (as opposed to polecats or</div> <div> polecat-ferret crosses, for instance) in the U.S., and a few</div> <div> deliberate attempts to introduce domestic ferrets to the wild have</div> <div> failed miserably, so this, too, is an unfounded fear -- even if one</div> <div> could picture a ferret harming a cow or breaking into a commercial</div> <div> poultry farm.</div> <bR> <div> The only states which now ban ferrets are California and Hawaii. In</div> <div> the face of overwhelming evidence, many areas are being persuaded to</div> <div> change their outdated regulations.</div> <bR> <div> Katie Fritz has compiled an extensive, though not complete, list of FFZs. If you have or want more information, contact her at <FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#0000FF" FACE="Verdana" ><U>redshoes@ix.netcom.com</U></FONT>, or on CompuServe at 71257,3153. </div> <bR> <div> Here's a list of some of the larger places where ferrets are illegal, as of <B><U>April </U></B><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#FF0000" FACE="Verdana" ><B><U>1998</U></B></FONT><B><U>. </U></B></div> <bR> <div> California; Hawaii; Washington, DC; Dallas, Ft. Worth, Beaumont, and various other cities in TX; Bloomington and Burnsville, MN; Tulsa, OK; Columbus, OH; London, York, and East York, Ontario, Canada; Puerto Rico</div> <bR> <div> Although ferrets aren't actually illegal in New York City or Minneapolis, MN, they are not welcomed and may be confiscated or ticketed. Similarly, although it's legal to own ferrets in South Carolina, it's not legal to sell them there. </div> <bR> <div> Permits or licenses are required in order to own ferrets in the following places: New Jersey ($10/year), Rhode Island ($10/year), Illinois (free). Permits are also required in St. Paul, MN, and may be difficult to obtain.</div> <bR> <bR> <div> Most of the misconceptions regarding domestic ferrets probably come</div> <div> from mistaking them for their wild cousins. It's very difficult to</div> <div> tell a polecat or a mink from a domestic ferret when all you've seen</div> <div> is a flash of fur disappearing into a burrow, and polecats and minks</div> <div> are quite common in the less-developed areas of Europe and North</div> <div> America.</div> <bR> <div> Because of the similar names, domestic ferrets have also been confused</div> <div> with their cousins the North American Black-Footed Ferrets, Mustela</div> <div> nigripes. Black-footed ferrets (BFFs) are wild remote relatives of</div> <div> the domestic ferret. They are an endangered species: the only BFFs</div> <div> known to exist are in zoos or in a breeding program in Wyoming.</div> <div> However, despite similar appearances, the BFF is not very closely</div> <div> related to the domestic ferret.</div> <bR> <div> Trust me, my guys are much happier curled up in front of the T.V. than they would be out in the wild. My guys have a little tent in their room for when they feel the call of the "wild".</div> <bR> <div> <B><U>How can I best ferretproof my home? What do I need to worry about?</U></B></div> <bR> <div> As every ferret owner knows, our little friends love to get into trouble. Whether your ferrets live in a cage when you're not around or are free all the time, whether they live in a single room or have the run of the house, the first line of defense, both for your ferrets and for your possessions, is a well-ferretproofed home. </div> <div> Ferrets love to worm their way into any little hole (as small as 2 X 2 inches, or smaller for kits and some adults), which can be very bad if the hole in question is under or behind a refrigerator or other appliance (with exposed wires, fans, insulation, and other dangers), into a wall, or outside. Crawl around on your stomach to look for holes near the floor and under cabinets, especially in the kitchen and laundry area. Even holes inside cabinets (which are particularly common in apartments, where plumbers are often rather sloppy) should be blocked, just in case. </div> <bR> <div> Ferrets can open cabinets and drawers, which can be dangerous or just annoying depending on what's inside them. Also watch out for heaters or furnace ducts. You can block openings with wood or wire mesh; be sure to leave ventilation around appliances. For doorways, try a smooth piece of plywood or Plexiglas slid into slots attached to the sides of the doorway. Recliners and sofa-beds are very dangerous; many ferrets have gotten crushed in the levers and springs underneath. They're difficult to ferretproof, except by putting them in a forbidden room. Even regular couches and beds can be dangerous if the ferret digs or crawls his way into the springs or stuffing. </div> <bR> <div> Next, look around the area your ferret will be playing. Remove anything spongy from reach, and put fragile items out of the way. Keep in mind that many ferrets are good climbers and jumpers, and they excel at finding complicated routes to places you never thought they could reach. They can get onto a sofa, into a trash can, onto the third shelf of a set of bookcases, into a bathtub or toilet (from which they might not be able to jump out), and into the opening on the back of a stereo speaker. They can also open cabinets and drawers, unzip backpacks, and climb up drawers from underneath or behind to get onto the desk or kitchen counter. </div> <bR> <div> So many things to investigate</div> <div> Apart from obvious dangers such as bottles of household cleaners, which ferrets do sometimes like to drink, be particularly careful with sponges, erasers, shoe insoles, foam earplugs, Silly Putty, foam rubber (even inside a cushion or mattress), styrofoam, insulation, rubber door stoppers, and anything else spongy or springy. Ferrets love to chew on that kind of thing, and swallowed bits can cause intestinal blockages. For some reason, many ferrets like to eat soap, so you'll have to keep that away from them. (A little lick won't hurt your ferret, just give her a bit of diarrhea, but large amounts can be a problem.) Human foods should also be kept out of reach, since even the ones which aren't dangerous to ferrets aren't good for them in large quantities. </div> <div> Be careful about full bathtubs, where your ferret might possibly drown, and consider keeping your toilet lid closed for the same reason. Buckets of water, paint, etc. can also be drowning or poisoning hazards, or might just be tipped over. Toilet paper and paper towel rolls are a problem because ferrets get their heads stuck in them and can choke or suffocate, and if you let your ferret play with plastic bags, you may want to cut off the handles and cut a slit in the bottom. </div> <bR> <div> Certain ferrets may also have special ferretproofing needs; for example, some like to eat paper, cloth, or plastic bags, which can easily cause a life-threatening intestinal blockage. A few ferrets like to chew on electrical cords or plants, and some common plants are quite poisonous. Liberal application of Bitter Apple paste to the cord or plant can help persuade your pet to stop gnawing on it. </div> <bR> <div> What's that about cats and curiosity?</div> <div> Finally, once your home is done, it's important to keep it safe. Watch your ferret's toys to make sure they're not beginning to crack or break apart, and keep in mind that you can be dangerous to your ferret, too. Always double-check your dishwasher, refrigerator, clothes washer and dryer (even top-loading models) before closing them or turning them on, and watch where you sit and walk: that chair, throw rug, or pile of laundry might be hiding a napping ferret. </div> <bR> <div> <B><U>How can I protect my carpet, plants, cabinets, bed, or couch?</U></B></div> <bR> <div> <U>Carpet</U></div> <bR> <div> Many ferrets dig at the carpet, especially near doors that are closed. It's very difficult to teach them not to do it. You're better off protecting your carpet by putting down a piece of plastic carpet protector from an office-supply store. Chances are your ferret will get bored with digging when she sees she's not getting anywhere, though it might take a while for that to happen. A carpet scrap or sample from a carpet store might work, too, although your pet will be able to shred it, so she might not give up as quickly. For out-of-the-way places, wire mesh can be nailed to the floor through the carpet; be sure to protect any sharp corners or points. </div> <bR> <div> <U>Plants</U></div> <bR> <div> Also be aware that ferrets like to dig in and possibly chew on houseplants, and some common ones are quite poisonous. Plants can be protected from digging (but not chewing) by putting large rocks or metal mesh over the tops of their pots. </div> <bR> <div> <U>Beds</U></div> <bR> <div> Many ferrets like to rip the cloth on the bottom of a box spring and climb into it, where they can easily get crushed or caught. To prevent that, try putting a fitted sheet on the bottom of the bed, anchored in place with small nails or brads, or attach wire mesh or a thin piece of wood to the underside of the box spring. You may need to drill air holes in the wood so the box spring can still compress. </div> <bR> <div> <U>Cabinets and drawers</U></div> <bR> <div> Depending on how your cabinets and drawers are constructed and how determined your ferrets are, you might be able to keep them closed using strong tape, rubber bands around a pair of handles, a nail or wooden dowel through the handles, or a strip of strong Velcro-type tape on the door and frame. Attaching eye hooks (screws with a ring shape at the top) to the door and cabinet and putting a nail through them both has worked for some people, and the latches with a pair of rollers on one piece and a mushroom-shaped catch are said to be strong enough for most ferrets. </div> <div> Some kinds of child-proof locks also work very well, though others are too weak or open wide enough to let a ferret through. The magnetic latch-and-key system works best for many people; they're available at many hardware or childrens' stores, or from the Woodworker's Store catalog (1-800-279-4441) or the Safety Zone catalog (1-800-999-3030). The kind that lock around two handles at once, available from baby stores, have also gotten a good report. </div> <bR> <div> <U>Couches</U></div> <bR> <div> If your ferret scratches at the underside of your couch to get through the fabric into the bottom, try taking off the couch's legs, if it has them. Heavy cloth or plywood stapled or nailed to the bottom can work, too, though ferrets can often rip cloth loose. Sometimes ferrets try to get into the bottom or arms of the couch by burrowing between the cushions and the back or sides. This is much harder to prevent, but some people have had good luck blocking the area with cloth or wood, stapled, nailed, taped or sewn to the couch. You can also give in and remove the bottom fabric and lower stuffing from your couch, putting a piece of plywood on the springs and the cushions on that. Then it doesn't matter as much if your ferrets get into the bottom, as long as they don't get caught between the cushions and the springs. </div> <div> Many ferret owners find it simpler to give up and get a futon or a "suspended" couch that doesn't have an inside in the first place. </div> <bR> <div> <TABLE BORDER="0" CELLPADDING="1" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="507" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="VOID" RULES="NONE" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=CENTER HEIGHT= 19 WIDTH="503"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="19" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="503" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <div> <B><U>Is a ferret a good pet for a child?</U></B></div> <bR> <div> Many people have both children and ferrets without problems, but</div> <div> there's a difference between having both children and pets, and</div> <div> getting a pet for your child. It's important to remember that a</div> <div> ferret is a lot like a cat or dog, and will require the same kind of</div> <div> attention and care. It's not at all like keeping a pet hamster or</div> <div> guinea pig. If your child is responsible, careful, and not too young,</div> <div> and you're willing to supervise and help out with the care, a ferret</div> <div> will be a great pet. Otherwise, consider getting a low-maintenance</div> <div> pet you can keep in a cage instead.</div> <bR> <div> It is definitely necessary to monitor interactions between young</div> <div> children and ANY pets closely, and to make sure children know the</div> <div> proper way to handle pets. A living creature needs, and deserves, to</div> <div> be treated with more care than a toy. Ferrets in particular love to</div> <div> pounce and wrestle when they play, which may frighten children, and</div> <div> children tend to play rather roughly, which may prompt a more vigorous</div> <div> response from an active ferret than from a typical cat.</div> <bR> <div> Just as some very friendly dogs become nervous around children because</div> <div> they don't look, smell, or act like adults, some ferrets who aren't</div> <div> used to kids don't quite know how to behave around them. Make sure</div> <div> both your child and your ferret understand what's expected of them,</div> <div> and what to expect from the other one. At least one person suggests</div> <div> that ferrets brought up around other animals, including other ferrets,</div> <div> will adjust to a child better than ones only used to adult humans.</div> <bR> <div> There are several stories floating around about ferrets attacking</div> <div> babies, some more true than others. Ferrets are unfamiliar to most</div> <div> people, so it's easier for them to make sweeping statements on the</div> <div> basis of a tiny amount of information. Some of the reports are simply</div> <div> rumor, or the result of confusing another animal with a ferret.</div> <div> Others are based in fact, but omit important information (for</div> <div> instance, that the child and pets had clearly been neglected or abused</div> <div> prior to the attack). A small number are unfortunately true.</div> <bR> <div> However, plenty of children have been attacked and even killed by dogs</div> <div> and cats. The number of people injured by ferrets each year is a tiny</div> <div> fraction of the number wounded or killed by dogs. People don't claim</div> <div> that all dogs and cats are too dangerous for pets, but rather that</div> <div> more responsible parenting and pet ownership is needed.</div> <bR> <div> According to Chris Lewis, former moderator of the Ferret Mailing</div> <div> List:</div> <bR> <div> The FML has carried confirmed reports of two, possibly three,</div> <div> cases where an animal identified as a "ferret" has seriously</div> <div> injured, and in one case, I believe, killed, infants. One in the</div> <div> UK, and one or two in the US. In none of these cases has it been</div> <div> proven that the animal was a ferret - particularly in the UK, it</div> <div> is quite possible that the animal was actually an European polecat</div> <div> which are raised for fur and sometimes for hunting (in the UK).</div> <div> And in each case gross child and animal abuse is well documented.</div> <div> But it's important to remember, that even the most pessimistic</div> <div> statistics on ferrets show that a ferret is about a thousand times</div> <div> *less* likely to cause injury than a dog. Indeed, every year</div> <div> there are hundreds of very serious or fatal dog attacks in the US</div> <div> alone. Worst case statistics show approximately 12 ferret attacks</div> <div> ever recorded in the US.</div> <bR> <div> Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds:</div> <bR> <div> "I can say from personal experience that there are many, many more</div> <div> bite incidents with the household dog or cat, and that either of</div> <div> these species tend to do a lot more damage. I have seen children</div> <div> require over a hundred facial stitches from getting between the</div> <div> dog and its food, but never anything like this with a ferret. But</div> <div> I've also been nailed by my share of ferrets too."</div> <bR> <div> Personally, I don't recommend ferrets for people with children</div> <div> under 6 or 7 - either the child or the ferret ends up getting</div> <div> hurt. Ideally- and especially if this going going to be the child's ferret- I would recommend the child be not under 10. And it is also important for the parent to be willing to assume responsiblity if his or her child does not keep up with the ferret's care. </div> <bR> <bR> <div> <B><U>Do ferrets smell bad? What can I do about it?</U></B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> Ferrets have an odor all their own, just like any pet. Some people</div> <div> like the musky scent, a few can't stand it, and most are in between.</div> <div> (Personally, I think it's much better than wet doggy smell or cat box</div> <div> stench.) If the ferret isn't yet altered, having that done will</div> <div> cut down on the odor a lot; whole (un-neutered) males, particularly,</div> <div> have a very strong smell. Young kits also have a peculiar, sharp</div> <div> scent which they lose as they get a bit older.</div> <bR> <div> Descenting a ferret doesn't change the day-to-day smell. Only</div> <div> the scent glands near the tail are removed, which prevents the ferret</div> <div> from releasing bad-smelling musk if it's frightened, but doesn't stop</div> <div> the normal musky oils which come from glands throughout the skin.</div> <bR> <div> The two big things you can do to cut down on your ferret's odor are to</div> <div> bathe him less -- yes, less -- often and to clean his bedding more</div> <div> often. Most of the musk stays in the cloth, on the litter or paper,</div> <div> and on your floors and furniture, not on the ferret himself. Cleaning</div> <div> them can be a big help. Also, right after a bath the ferret's skin</div> <div> glands go into overdrive to replenish the oils you just washed away,</div> <div> so for a few days the ferret will actually smell worse. Foods</div> <div> containing fish may make your ferret, or his litter pan, smell worse</div> <div> than those with chicken, lamb, etc.. You may also find that your</div> <div> ferret smells more during shedding season in the spring and fall.</div> <bR> <div> Some people have had good luck with Ferret Sheen powder and various</div> <div> air filter systems.</div> <bR> <div> <B><U>What do you call a ferret male/female/baby/group? </U></B></div> <bR> <div> A male is called a hob, and a female is a jill. To some people, neutered males (first picture, on the right) are gibs and neutered females are sprites (on the left), but these are new terms and aren't as commonly used. A baby ferret of either sex (second picture) is a kit. </div> <bR> <div> The most commonly accepted phrase for a group is "a business of ferrets". Some people spell it "busyness" instead. Another possibility, "fastening" or "fesnyng," is thought to be due to a misreading of "bysnys" long ago. </div> <bR> <div> <B><U>How can I help the ferret community? </U></B></div> <bR> <div> There are lots of ways you can help the ferret community at large. If your ferrets are very trustworthy and have had their vaccinations, take them with you to the park or pet store and show people what wonderful pets they are, to counteract all the false rumors. (Be very careful, though: if your ferret should nip or scratch someone, even by accident, some states will kill him for rabies testing, even if he's been vaccinated. You may want to only let people pet his back.) Give good ferret information, perhaps a copy of this general FAQ and the Medical FAQs, to your vet. </div> <bR> <div> Adopt, foster, or sponsor a ferret from a local shelter, or donate old towels, shirts, food, litter, cages, money, or time. Many shelters could use help with construction projects, computer setup and use, recordkeeping, etc., as well as day-to-day ferret care, cage cleaning, and trips to the vet. (However, shelter directors are very busy people, and may have established routines they'd rather not have disrupted, so don't be offended if your offer of help is refused. Ask if there's something else you could do instead.) To find a shelter near you, see the STAR*Ferrets list of clubs, shelters, etc. or contact a local ferret club. </div> <bR> <div> <B><U>What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when?</U></B></div> <bR> <div> <I><U>Canine distemper</U></I></div> <div> Fervac-D or Fromm-D <I>canine</I> distemper vaccine</div> <div> The manufacturer recommends shots (1 ml subcutaneously) at 8, 11, and 14 weeks. (Some vets recommend four shots, three weeks apart, instead. Two is not enough.) Then a yearly booster shot. Although rabies gets more press, the canine distemper vaccine is <I><B>much</B></I><B> more important</B> for your ferret's health. </div> <div> Adults who have never been vaccinated, or whose vaccination status is unknown, should get two canine distemper shots, three weeks apart, then yearly boosters. If you know they've been vaccinated within the last year, then one shot is enough. </div> <div> If you can't get Fervac-D or Fromm-D, or if your ferret has reacted to them in the past, Galaxy-D is an acceptable third choice. If you can't get either of these, you're taking the risk that your ferret won't be protected, or worse, that he'll become sick from the vaccine. At least be sure that it's a vaccine for canine distemper which is a MODIFIED LIVE virus and was NOT cultured in ferret tissue. Chick embryo culture is best.  <I><U>If you take your ferret to a </U></I><I><B><U>"free clinic"</U></B></I><I><U> for dogs and cats they will probably give your ferret the </U></I><I><B><U>wrong</U></B></I><I><U> vaccine. It could kill your ferret!  Make sure to take your ferret to a qualified vet!</U></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><U>Rabies</U></I></div> <div> Imrab-3 rabies vaccine</div> <div> One subcutaneous vaccination at 14-16 weeks, separated from the distemper vaccines by 2-3 weeks, then boosters yearly. This is the same rabies vaccine that's used for dogs and cats, so your vet should have it around. It's good for three years in cats, but only one year in ferrets, mainly because the company hasn't done tests to see how long it lasts in ferrets. This is the only rabies vaccine approved for ferrets. </div> <bR> <div> <U>Comments</U></div> <div> Ferrets do not need to be vaccinated for feline distemper or parvo. They don't need a 5-way dog vaccine. </div> <div> They can contract Bordatella (a common cause of kennel cough in dogs), but it's very rare, and the effectiveness of the vaccine is unknown in ferrets. Don't vaccinate for it unless you'll be boarding your ferrets at a kennel, and possibly not even then. <U>The intranasal Bordatella vaccine has been known to give ferrets the disease. </U></div> <bR> <div> It's best to give the distemper and rabies vaccines be spaced a couple of weeks apart, since giving them at the same time seems to increase the chances of an <B>adverse reaction</B> (see below). </div> <div> If you want to change a ferret's vaccination schedule, for instance to move all your pets to the same schedule, you can safely give another vaccination as long as it's been at least a month since the last one. </div> <div> Most states don't recognize the rabies vaccine for ferrets, because official studies of virus shedding time in ferrets are yet to be done. This means that even if your ferret is vaccinated, it may be destroyed if someone reports to the authorities that they were bitten. However, having the vaccination may keep the person from reporting a bite in the first place, and of course it will protect your ferrets from getting rabies. (Even closely watched ferrets do occasionally escape.) </div> <bR> <div> <I><U>Vaccine reactions</U></I></div> <div> Like any other animals, ferrets occasionally have adverse reactions to vaccinations, typically on the second or third exposure to a particular vaccine. Reactions are rare, and giving the rabies and distemper vaccinations two weeks apart is thought to reduce the chance, but they can be life-threatening. </div> <div> There are several kinds of vaccine reactions. The most dangerous, anaphylactic reactions, usually occur within an hour after the vaccination. You may want to stay at your vet's for 30-60 minutes after a vaccination, just in case. Watch for vomiting, diarrhea or loss of bladder/bowel control; signs of nausea or dizziness; dark bluish-purple blotches spreading under the skin; difficulty breathing; pale or bright pink gums, ears, feet or nose; seizures, convulsions, or passing out; or anything else that's alarming -- bad reactions are hard to miss. Get the ferret back to the vet right away, probably for a shot of antihistamine (Benadryl) and perhaps a corticosteroid or epinephrine. Ferrets who have had mild to moderate anaphylactic reactions to a particular vaccine can be pre-treated with an antihistamine the next time, or you might consider switching to a different vaccine (from Fervac to Galaxy or the other way, for instance). If your ferret had a severe reaction, you and your vet can discuss the relative dangers of leaving that ferret unvaccinated. </div> <div> Most delayed reactions aren't dangerous. You might notice the ferret acting tired, showing flu-like symptoms, or possibly even vomiting a little within a day or two after the vaccination. As long as the symptoms don't last longer than a day and don't seem too extreme, there's no need to worry. If the ferret has trouble breathing, is more than a little lethargic, or shows other worrisome symptoms, call or visit your vet. Antihistamines don't help much with delayed reactions, but your vet might suggest pre-treating the ferret next time anyway, in case it helps. </div> <bR> <bR> <div> <B><U>Can I vaccinate my own ferrets?</U></B></div> <div> It's not recommended. Giving an injection to a squirming or nippy animal is not easy. Even experienced veterinarians with good technicians sometimes get bitten. Also, an injection in the wrong place can injure the sciatic nerve and permanently paralyze the ferret's leg; and in case of a bad reaction to the vaccine, a vet has the experience and equipment on hand which may be needed to save the ferret's life. </div> <div> In addition, a licensed veterinarian's signature is required for a rabies certificate to be legal. The annual trip to the vet (or semi-annual, for older ferrets) is also the best time to have your ferrets checked for other health problems. </div> <div> Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds: </div> <div> Unfortunately, vaccination are what supports the vets - sick animals don't. The extra few dollars is what pays the help, and the electricity, what feeds the strays that are dropped off weekly to your vets, or the dogs that nobody bothers to pick up. Or the ones that are hit by cars and dropped off by Good Samaritans. </div> <div> However, if you have a lot of ferrets to be vaccinated, you may be able to save yourself some money by purchasing the vaccines themselves directly from the manufacturer and taking them to your vet to be used. You save on the materials, but you still get your vet's expertise. Check with your vet to see if he or she will work with you like this. </div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> </td> </tr></table></body>